Hang your hat at an Antwerp cafe where fine food is matched with Belgian beer

They pay scant attention at De Rooden Hoed to that old saying “never mix the grape and the grain”. When I sat down at my table in the restaurant in Antwerp I was handed an aperitif of Liefman’s Cuvée Brut, the famous “sour red” beer from Oudenaarde, mixed with Saumur wine. It was palate-cleansing and delicious, and nicely set up my taste buds for the meal that was to follow.

That was the only wine to pass my lips that evening. De Rooden Hoed believes in pairing food with beer, to such an extent that the name of the local brewery, De Koninck, is picked out in large letters on one wall in an Art Deco-inspired motif.

It’s the oldest eating place in the city and dates from the mid-18^th century when it refreshed travellers who arrived in Antwerp by stage coach: the restaurant still offers a special coachman’s soup.

De Rooden Hoed has a magnificent and inspirational setting, just a few steps from the mighty cathedral that towers over the city. The restaurant’s name means the Red Hat and there are a number of theories about its origin. The building has the only red-tiled roof in Antwerp, according to one belief, or it may come from a priest in the cathedral who walked around the neighbourhood every day wearing a red cap. The restaurant has bright red tiles on the floor, but that seems a fanciful suggestion for the name: why confuse tiles with a hat unless you had over-indulged and were lying flat on your face?

What is beyond question is the quality of the food and the beer-matching. The Red Hat has been overhauled and refurbished by a new young management team led by Cas Goossens. They are friendly and attentive without being intrusive: there was none of that annoying “did you enjoy the last succulent morsel, sir?” But Cas and his team did explain why they had chosen particular beers for each dish and welcomed my feedback.

The main menu is extensive and each dish comes with a recommended beer; some dishes are cooked with beer. I noted down just a few of the offerings. The starters include moules with Vedett Extra Blond, crab with De Koninck, oysters with Liefmans’s and Pommes Muscovite with Duvel. Main courses include rump steak with De Koninck, Entrecôte with McChouffe, steak tartar with Vedett Extra Blond, choucroute with Duvel, waterzooi (fish stew) with Triple d’Anvers, and lobster with Duvel. Among the desserts I noted crème brulée with De Koninck, trio of chocolate with Liefman’s Cuvée Brut, and Dame Blanche with McChouffe.

Most restaurant critics are “mystery diners”, writing their reviews anonymously. But I was upfront and fancy free. Cas Goossens and his team were not only expecting me but had devised a special menu for the occasion. I had a choice of starters: quiche with fresh vegetables and provençal herbs matched with Liefman’s Oud bruin; carpaccio of Fladria tomatoes, truffels and De Konick, accompanied by Chouffe Houblon; Flemish asparagus with Vedett Blond; and cheese croquettes with Parmesan matched with Duvel.

The main courses were: linguini with provençal vegetables accompanied by De Koninck; asparagus with a mousseline of Vedett Extra White matched by the same beer; risotto with cauliflower, paprika, tomatoes and Maredsous cheese backed by De Koninck; pasta with lentils, again with De Koninck; and salad of goat’s cheese with beetroot, dressing of Liefman’s Oud Bruin and roasted nut crumble accompanied by Bacchus brown beer.

Each dish had a careful tasting note that explains why the restaurant team believe the beers are the perfect match for the food.

I chose cheese croquettes as my starter and was intrigued by the waiter bring a bottle of Duvel and two glasses: the familiar large Duvel snifter and a smaller, junior version. He explained that this was to offer a choice to diners who preferred the beer with or without the sediment: a touch of class. As a traditionalist, I chose the large glass and found myself in agreement with a tasting note that said “the Styrian Goldings hop is a soothing combination with the lemon and full flavour of hot cheese.” I would add that the renowned Poire William character of Duvel delivers a fruit note that marries well with the creamy cheese.

In between starter and main course I was offered a lemon sorbet with Bacchus Framboise, an old brown beer with the addition of raspberries. The acidity cleansed the palate and set me up beautifully for the next course.

It may seem perverse to choose another cheese dish, but I was tempted by the beetroot that came with the goat’s cheese. I tend to like vegetables that other people run from screaming. As well as beetroot, I adore Brussels sprouts to such an extent that I’ve been known at Christmas meals to eat my sprouts and other people’s as well.

The tasting note for the dish said “The sourness of the goat’s cheese, beetroot and the dressing fits perfectly with the soft acidity of the traditional Old Brown beer from Oudenaarde. The sweetness of the beer fits perfectly.” I cannot improve on that.

I’m not a dessert person and I was cheesed out but not off by this time, so I settled for an espresso and admired the surroundings. The restaurant is airy and spacious, with the tables set well apart. There’s none of that packed and noisy “school canteen” style that’s been thrust on the British by the advent of Jamie’s Italian. There are also tables outside on the pavement where it must be a delight to eat and drink in warm weather.

De Rooden Hoed is not only a fine restaurant but living proof that beer is an excellent companion at the table.

*De Rooden Hoed, 25 Oude Koornmarkt, Antwerp. +32 3 289 09 09. www.deroodenhoed.be