From the ashes of Antwerp's docks rises 't Pakhuis, a brew pub with 'awesome' beer

Fancy a beer in a warehouse? If that doesn’t sound the most inviting proposal, jump on a tram or grab a bike and prepare to be surprised. ’t Pakhuis is based in the former docks area of Antwerp that is now the up-and-coming region of the city. It’s handy for the Museum of Beaux Arts, the Palace of Justice and the Photo and Film Museum.

’t Pakhuis is a “house brewery” or brew pub, part of a large restaurant than can seat 350 people. The old warehouse, with massive brick walls, high raftered ceilings and skylights, stored coffee and tobacco until the docks moved away in the 1960s.

In 1996 the warehouse was turned into a restaurant by Ed Van Den Ouweland.  His son Kristof encouraged him to add a small house brewery, which they promote as “the only brewery in Antwerp”. This must annoy mighty De Koninck that’s been brewing since 1833. But when De Koninck opened it was on the ancient city boundary, marked by a toll booth that led to the suburb of Berchem. The two breweries, big and small, engage in peaceful co-existence.

Kristof was unloading sacks of malt from a van as I arrived, emphasising that brewing is a serious business at ’t Pakhuis, not just a gimmick to attract customers. Kristof has a full-time brewer, Hans Jensen, and he was joined that day by the redoubtable Hans Bombeke, a tour de force in Antwerp beer circles. (Pictured above left to right: Hans Bombeke, Hans Jensen and Kristof Van Den Ouweland.) As well as brewing at ’t Pakhuis, Hans Bombeke conducts beer talks and tastings in pubs and restaurants, notably Bier Central close to the main railway station. He’s also closely involved in developing beer cuisine in restaurants where dishes are paired with carefully-chosen beer styles.

The brewery is on the ground floor, on a raised dais, with gleaming copper vessels. In the Belgian tradition, the mashing vessel doubles as the kettle: after the mash, the wort is transferred to the second vessel, the lauter, where the sweet liquid is filtered from the spent grain and then returns to the first vessel for the boil with hops.

Three regular beers are produced: Blond (4.9%), Bruin (6%) and Den Bangelijke (8.5-9%). The last named is a Tripel and the intriguing name means, in the Antwerp dialect, “awesome”. Blond is brewed with Pils malt and small amounts of wheat and cara malt. The hops are Cascade, Styrian Goldings and Saaz. Bruin (brown) is composed of Pils malt, oats, brown and roasted malts and hopped with East Kent Goldings and Northern Brewer. 

The Tripel is a blend of Pils, cara and wheat malts and cornflakes. When I queried the last ingredient, Kristof said: “Yes, cornflakes – Kelloggs!” and laughed uproariously. Given its strength, it might be best not to promote it as a breakfast beer. The hops used are Amarillo, Cascade, Saaz and Styrians.

The beers are brewed solely for the restaurant and not for other bars in the city. But they can be taken away in large containers – what Americans call growlers – for home consumption.

The beers are unfiltered and unpasteurised, and are brewed only with Belgian malts. The Blond is hazy gold, with a rich honeyed malt aroma balanced by blood orange fruit and peppery hops. Honeyed malt dominates the palate but there are strong contributions from tart fruit and hop resins. The finish is dry with notes of tart fruit and spicy hops but with lingering creamy and juicy malt adding balance.

Bruin has an inviting ruby red/brown colour with wholemeal biscuits, berry fruits and gentle spicy hops on the nose. Biscuit malt and rich, burnt fruit build in the mouth, with growing hop notes. The finish is bittersweet with a big hit of vinous fruit, creamy malt and spicy hops.

Is the Tripel truly awesome? You bet! It’s deceptively blond in colour with a massive cracker/Ryvita nose balanced by peppery hops and hints of honey, spice and lemon. Creamy malt builds in the mouth, with tart fruit developing, but malt and fruit are underscored by peppery hops and hint of honey. Honey malt dominates the long, complex finish with pear-like fruit notes and bitter and spicy hops.

I thought I’d finished the tasting but Hans Bombeke appeared with a small glass of dark beer (bottom picture). “It’s the winter beer,” he announced. It was too good to miss, with spring hovering outside. The beer is dark brown going on black, with a ruby edge. Hans said it was brewed with the addition of cinnamon and ginger alongside roasted malts and hops. There’s a big hit of cinnamon on the nose, accompanied by coffee, chocolate and roasted grain. Cinnamon and ginger dominate the palate but are balanced by roasted grain, spicy hops and coffee notes. Chocolate returns in the luscious finish, with more notes of roasted grain and spicy hops. 

“Where else can you eat with the rich, biscuity smell of brewing?” Hans asked. It’s clearly an aroma that attracts customers. As early as 12 noon, people were arriving for a light lunch accompanied by the house beers. A snack menu offers croque monsieur, croque madame or mushrooms on toast. Daily specials are written on a board, designed like a brewing vessel, on the wall. Some main dishes are cooked with beer, such as beer soup with Blond, steak with Bruin, salad with Den Bangelijke, and the Flemish speciality, Waterzoi. This is a stew, usually with a fish base, but it can be meat or vegetables, and is cooked with the Blond beer. There are several fish, seafood and pasta dishes and plentiful offerings for vegetarians. Desserts include chocolate mousse with Bruin.

The bare brick walls are decorated with photos of old Antwerp, including many of the working docks. The top floor is reserved for parties while a trip to the basement reveals the fermenting vessels fed by the brewhouse above.

’t Pakhuis is open for conducted tours and banquets and is fast becoming one of the beer and culinary delights of Antwerp. On second thoughts, use a tram rather than a bike, especially if you sample the awesome Tripel.

*’t Pakhuis, 76 Vlaamse Kai, Antwerp. +32 3 238 12 40; www.pakhuis.info.