Rochefort

Reddish-brown colour, with a fruity and slightly herbal aroma and palate and a finish dominated by rich malt, a pleasing hint of chocolate (in keeping with the traditions of the town of Rochefort!) and gentle hop notes.

Rochefort 8 Similar colour to 6, with dark grain, chocolate, and raisin and sultana fruit on the nose, sweet but not cloying fruit in the mouth with a developing hop note, and a dry finish with more burnt fruit, chocolate and spicy hops.

Rochefort 10 Again, red-brown in colour with a massive aroma of toasted grain, soft vinous fruits, nuts and chocolate. The palate and finish are dominated by warming alcohol, chocolate, ripe fruit and gently spicy hops.

The abbey is reclusive and visits are difficult to arrange. Accommodation is available but only for people on religious retreat. I stayed at the Hotel Malle Poste in Rochefort (46 rue de Behogne, telephone 084 21 09 86), where the monks' beers are on sale. Thanks to the Tourist Board for the Wallonia region of Belgium for their help in arranging the visit: www.belgiumtheplaceto.be.